Thursday, July 31, 2008

My first day of class in EL Salvador

July 28, 2008

Today was my first day of school here in El Salvador, at the Center for Exchange and Solidarity (el CIS). I took a placement test and was placed in the low intermediate level, which is what I am at home, too. The class was very good, interesting and challenging!

In the afternoon we participated in the optional Political-Cultural program that the school offers, and I am so glad that I attended today! We had a substitute teacher who was fantastic! Before he arrived we watched a video about one of the main leaders of the armed struggle during the civil war. It was called “The Story of Maria.” (The leader’s name was Maria). It was very good. After that, our teacher arrived and we discussed the video together, talking about the revolution and the themes thereof. Our teacher then began to speak about the position of women in Salvadorean society, and how during the war, because so many women were leaders and armed combatants, the roles for men and women became equal, because both participated equally in all of the aspects of the war. We went on to discuss the role of the Jesuit priests in the development of the socio-political awareness of the poor people of El Salvador, the relationship of the current government to the Catholic church, the attitude of the government towards poor people during the war, the difference between revolutions in South and Central America (socialist/communist ideology on the one hand, and religion and consciousness of a different way of thinking about God’s plan for our lives, on the other hand), the effects of free trade on the region, the plan the United States has to build a highway to connect the US and all the Central American countries as far as Panama, the reality of poverty in El Salvador, which our teacher said is far underrepresented by what the current (ARENA) government is telling the people, and the fact that the government/political party that is currently in power in El Salvador (ARENA) is one of the most brutally violent governments in existence.

After this lively and interesting discussion, our teacher asked us if we had any questions. I did. I wanted to know how exactly the civil war began ... what were the “first acts,” if you will. One of my classmates chided me for asking this, because, he implied, I seemed to be asking for the information to be presented as it usually is in our grade-school textbooks. Our teacher was also amused. But he is an unusually thoughtful man with a very well-developed critical mind, and so he immediately began to give a very thorough and thoughtful answer to my question. He said that the reality is that to understand the roots of the civil war in EL Salvador, one has to look far back in history. He said that when the conquistadores first came to El Salvador from Spain, the indigenous people here were not passive, but they resisted. So, he said, there is a very long history of armed resistance in this country. He said that in 1832 there was an armed uprising of indigenous people that fought the government forces for one year, using only their machetes. And in 1932, there was an armed movement of indigenous people (with machetes, again). Some of the leaders were Farabundo Marti (who the FMLN is named in memory of), Luna, and Emiliano Zapata. In 1932 there was a massacre carried out by the government, and 30,000 indigenous people were killed. (Our teacher said that this is why there aren’t very many indigenous people left in El Salvador.) He said that in 1932, after the massacre, the government started a program of heavy persecution of indigenous people. If they spoke their native language (Nahuatl - a Mayan language, I believe) or if they wore their traditional style of clothing, they would be killed by soldiers. Thereby, the indigenous culture in El Salvador was heavily persecuted and repressed. He mentioned a man named Miguel Marmol, also, but I forget in which context. Regarding the war that took place in the 1970s and 1980s here, he said that there was always a conflict between the people and the government, but that in 1980, two distinct, opposing groups appeared - on the left, the FMLN, and on the right, ARENA. And one of the major stimuli for the opening of the armed conflict was the assassination of Archbishop Romero, who was a great supporter of the poor people and a proponent of Liberation Theology. So,our teacher told us, after the death of Archbishop Romero, there was an escalation of the conflict, and so this seemed like “the beginning of the war.” But in reality, the struggle began when the Spanish came to this land 500 years ago, and has continued ever since. I am so thankful to this teacher for taking the time to carefully and humbly explain to us the roots of this very long conflict.

Since our teacher was so forthcoming with information and so knowledgeable, later I asked him another of my “burning questions,” which was, “Do disappearances continue to happen in El Salvador.” His answer was yes. He explained that the ARENA government uses the excuse of gang violence to explain away any disappearances. But, he said, sometimes a person will turn up in the news with wounds that were obviously caused by torture (he made a gesture that indicated the ends of fingers wrapped in gauze bandages after the removal of fingernails), but the official position on the case is that the violence was perpetrated by gangs (bandillas). He elaborated the example of a recent case of a high school student who was involved in a student movement. This student disappeared one day last year, and has not been heard from since. In the news, it was reported that the police followed him onto a bus and demanded that he come with them. But when they were questioned later, they said that he was in the police station for only a few minutes and then he left, and they have no idea what happened to him. He hasn’t been heard from for a year. And, our teacher said, the government blamed his disappearance on gangs. He said that “gang violence” is the government’s scapegoat for everything violent that happens in El Salvador. He then pointed out that during the war it was much easier to tell who was disappeared by the government forces, because there was far less gang activity, but now it is harder to distinguish or prove the difference between the two (especially as far as the government is concerned). He said that “death squads” are still operating in El Salvador, for the purpose of suppressing political dissent, but it is much harder to prove this these days.

Our teacher elaborated on the political situation here by saying that the current government promotes an image of El Salvador that is not real. It promotes, through the news media and, as my host father says, “propaganda,” the idea that El Salvador has developed much economically, that there is much less poverty now (although Ulises said that in reality about 50% of the Salvadoran people live in poverty), and that it is possible to have a better life here. Wheareas, in reality, this is a lie. Half of the people live in poverty, free expression of political views and grassroots organizing are dangerous, and the Salvadoran economy is almost completely dependent on the United States. Ah! My first day at El CIS was perfect for me! I loved learning all of these things. Que chevere!

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Link to Comadres homepage

Here is the link to the Comadres homepage:

http://www.comadres.org/

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Two more interesting links

I recently found these two links and thought I'd share them here:

The first is an article from the LA Times which explains very well the current situation of the relatives of the Disappeared throughout Latin America. Very worthwhile. From 2005.

http://articles.latimes.com/2005/dec/19/world/fg-mothers19

The second is the website of the main international coalition working against the use of enforced disappearances.

http://www.icaed.org/the-coalition/

Monday, July 21, 2008

Why make this trip?

Hello all,

If you are curious about why I have decided to go to El Salvador,
here's a synopsis of my interest in and history with El Salvador.
In 1995, I was a student with Friends World Program (now called
Global College), taking a year abroad at their Latin American Center (LAC),
which is based in Costa Rica. As part of a course we took called "Central
America Today, in November, we boarded a colorfully painted old school
bus and began a three week trip through Honduras, Nicaragua and El
Salvador. Two of our teachers accompanied us. (Most of our teachers at the
LAC were refugees or exiles from the surrounding Central American countries,
as a result of the civil wars that those countries had been through.)

On our trip, we visited Mayan ruins, beautiful lakes, the offices of former revolutionary organizations, such as the FMLN and the Sandinistas, and many grassroots human rights organizations, such as a women's organization working to improve the situation of women in the country. But there was one organization that made an indelible impression upon me. That was the Comadres (The Committee of the Mothers of the Disappeared and Assassinated of El Salvador), an organization which was founded the year of my birth, and which was very strongly supported and encouraged into being by (the now assassinated) Monsenor (Archbishop) Oscar Arnulfo Romero.

I had actually read about the Comadres in a class I took in college in New York City, so when our teacher in Costa Rica announced that we would visit them on our trip, I was ecstatic. I had read a book by Maria Teresa Tula, one of the founding members of the Comadres, in which she told of her experiences during the civil war, when many family members were kidnapped, tortured and many killed.

When I visited the Comadres with Friends World Program, Alicia de Garcia, another of the founding members of the Comadres, shared with us her testimonio; her attestation of what she experienced during the civil war in El Salvador. She spoke in Spanish, and one of our teachers translated. She spoke about the disappearances that happened during the civil war. She told us about the disappearances of two of her brothers and two of her sons. She told us in graphic detail about the experience of her own kidnapping and torture, and about how her daughter was also kidnapped and tortured, having her fingernails pulled out. Her sixteen-year-old son was killed for researching cases of disappeared people. She told us that during its existence, the office of the Comadres had been bombed eight times, and many files destroyed.

When Alicia de Garcia finished giving us her testimonio, there was a period for questions. One of my classmates asked, "Considering how dangerous your work is, and how disliked it is by the government, are you afraid to walk down the street on the way to work? Are you afraid that you may be kidnapped again?" Alicia gave an astounding answer that I will never forget.
(This is paraphrased from what I remember of her response.) "No, I am not afraid. I am not afraid, because our path is the right path; it is God's path. Monsenor Romero said that the right path is often covered in briars and brambles, and you may have to fight through those briars to follow it, but it is the right thing to do. So, no, I am not afraid, because I am following the right path. I am not afraid, because our path is just."

Alicia's answer had a profound effect upon me. When I heard Alicia de Garcia speak of the strength (against all odds) that came from her knowing she was doing the right thing, something inside of me changed. I knew I wanted to learn to be that strong. I wanted to learn to do what was right no matter what, and what’s more, not to be afraid. I knew there was an alternative to the way I had been living my life. I felt I had been giving in to my fears far too easily. Listening to Alicia, I realized that the things I was afraid of weren’t really that scary, and I set out to conquer them. Now I have learned to conquer some of my fears; the ones that seemed to be so important when I was eighteen.

Alicia’s testimonio and the work of the Comadres inspired me to conquer my fears and to learn to live my life in the best way possible. Now that I have become much stronger, I wish to return to the Comadres and be helpful to them in some way. That is why I have chosen to make this trip. Because the example of the Comadres has inspired my life and taught me not to be afraid and to work for what I think is right.

The original work of the Comadres was to research cases of people who were disappeared, to compile as much information about their cases as possible, and to petition the government to do something to find out what happened to these people, who have been missing for so long. Their work was also as a mutual support group for relatives of the disappeared. They continue this work today, in addition to working for women's rights and helping children whose parents were disappeared.

A major obstacle in the way of their goals is that in 1992, when the Peace Accords were signed, a general Amnesty was declared under which no one can be prosecuted for war crimes committed during the civil war. This means that survivors of torture may meet their former torturers in the streets, or while shopping, and there is nothing they can legally do about it. This state of affairs is common in many Latin American countries where disappearances happened during dictatorships. I recently watched a movie from Argentina which addresses this issue, called Cautiva. I would definitely recommend it.

Monday, July 14, 2008

Mural of Archbishop Romero

This mural shows Archbishop Romero, who was assassinated in 1980. He was a steadfast advocate for the poor and oppressed of El Salvador and stands today as a symbol of resistance and hope. My rough translation of the Spanish text is: "The structures of social injustice are what have given slow death to our poor." This mural is in Suchitoto, El Salvador.

Links for info and background on El Salvador

Hello all,

Here is a link that gives a very concise history of El Salvador

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/el-salvador/history

and I highly recommend listening to this podcast (also from the Lonely Planet site),
which is an interview with an ex-guerilla fighter who now works at the War Museum in Morazan, El Salvador.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/travelstories/podcast/elsalvador_new_start_0707

and, of course, I highly recommend perusing the rest of the Lonely Planet site on El Salvador, if you'd like to learn more about this wonderful country!

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/el-salvador/

Thursday, July 10, 2008

International Day to Remember Victims of Torture

On behalf of my Quaker Meeting, I am a member of MNRCAT, the Metro New York Religious Campaign Against Torture. This organization works to raise awareness about and to stop the use of torture by governments/intelligence agencies as a means of interrogation. We focus specifically on the use of torture by the United States. This picture is from a rally we held near the United Nations on June 26, 2007. June 26 is the International Day in Rememberance of Victims of Torture. I also attended the MNRCAT event on June 26 this year, which was an interfaith service and press conference in the UN Chapel. It was a very moving experience, at which a survivor of torture from Chile spoke. Her story reminded me of those of the Comadres, whom I am going to work with in El Salvador. Many of them were kidnapped and tortured during their country's civil war.

At the interfaith service to honor victims of torture, a torture survivor spoke. She is from Chile, and was a sociology student and trade union leader at the time that Salvador Allende was assassinated in 1964. A couple of months after Allende’s assassination, she was abducted and tortured by agents of the Chilean government. She was held captive for several years. She said that what kept her sane and alive was the knowledge that other prisoners were suffering also, and her faith in G-d. There was one thing in particular that really struck me, and has stayed with me. She said that people are detained just because they “do not believe, look like, or speak like those who are currently in power.”

This woman lived in England in exile for ten years. When she finally returned to Chile in the 1980s, she was imprisoned again. This woman was a very sweet, middle-aged woman who could have been anyone’s mother. She has children, but their bond has been stretched many times.

First experimental post

This is the first post in my blog about my upcoming adventure to El Salvador.
I just got off the phone with Alicia de Garcia, who is one of the founding members of the Comadres, the Committee of the Mothers of the Disappeared and Assassinated of El Salvador. I have been calling her since February 2008, talking about details regarding my trip to El Salvador and the work I will do with them. At this point, we have arranged that I will teach English for them for 2-3 weeks. Today I told her that if there is any other work I can do for them while I am there, I would be happy to do that also. I will begin my trip by studying Spanish at "El CIS," the "Centro de Intercambio y Solidaridad," for one week, before starting work with the Comadres. I am very excited about this trip. It is a trip that I have wanted to do ever since I visited the Comadres in 1995, as a student at Friends World Program.